Two fishing villages at the foot of the Eo estuary

Two fishing villages welcome you in the west of Asturias, As Figueiras and Castropol. At the foot of the Eo estuary, they offer spectacular panoramic views, combine a seafaring atmosphere with the presence of the Indians and are the best hosts for exploring the Principality's coastline due to their picturesque location.

After crossing the bridge of Los Santos, with the Cantabrian Sea on the left and the river Eo on the right, a green sign announces the arrival to paradise, the entrance to Asturias through the western gate. Stepping on this land produces a special emotion and entering the Principality is always a pleasure. As a curiosity, this bridge, also pedestrian and 612 metres long, was inaugurated in 1987. In addition to being an outstanding work of engineering, it has helped to strengthen cultural, tourist and social ties between two communities, Asturias and Galicia. On the other hand, it stands in an impressive area declared a Biosphere Reserve - covering an area of 158,000 hectares - and is the only one of the seven reserves in Asturias to have a coastline and marvellous beaches such as Penarronda.

The Eo estuary is, nowadays, one of the best preserved estuaries in the north of Spain and has been and is a historic route on the Pilgrims' Route to Santiago de Compostela. To enter its waters, in the warm months you can enjoy boat trips between Ribadeo, Castropol and As Figueiras. This is highly recommended due to the special interest of its birdlife and vegetation.

On dry land, a few metres from the bridge and near a recreational area, we find the chapel of San Román. It is the first stop before entering Figueras. A brotherhood of seafarers began raising money in 1805 to build this church and a watchtower. Its construction was completed in 1842, after an investment of two thousand pesetas (twelve euros). It was a huge sum for the time, but only 38 years later it was rebuilt due to its deterioration.

Through the narrow, quiet streets of As Figueiras you go down to its fishing port. Here we find one of the main charms of this town, which pays homage to those who live from the sea in all its corners. Before arriving, along the way we will see the charming Peñalba mansion, designed at the beginning of the 20th century by the architect Ángel Arbéx, a disciple of Gaudí.

The port area of As Figueiras is captivating for its contrasts. At one end, the cranes and enormous vessels built at Astilleros Gondán, a flagship company in Figueras, and a few metres away, its charming fishing port, with a fleet of small fishing and pleasure boats. These are two symbols of the evolution of the town, of how the more traditional trades have given way to a thriving sector. It is highly recommended to sit for a few minutes and enjoy the unbeatable view of the estuary, especially at sunset, which adds a poetic touch to the beauty of the surroundings. In the mid-afternoon we can even enjoy and capture the beautiful reflection of the neighbouring Castropol on the waters.

In the port area of As Figueiras you can enjoy numerous water activities. The Nautical Club offers rafts, laser bug, kayaks, sailing courses... And in the vicinity, before continuing along the path, the building of the 'Nuestra Señora del Carmen' Fishermen's Guild and, on the way up the watchtower, the characteristic sailors' houses will catch your eye. They were built mainly in the lower part of the village. In the upper area, where we will find more stately buildings, families with greater purchasing power settled.

Another of the town's landmarks is the Clock Tower, whose benefactor was Domingo Gayol y Marínez Magadán. He stipulated in his will that "part of his estate should be invested in the erection of a clock with its corresponding tower and other accessories that would serve as a timetable for the residents of this town and would always be of a public nature". It is currently the town's Casa de Cultura (Cultural Centre). Very close by are also the secular schools, which are celebrating their centenary this year. They were promoted by Florencio López Villamil, an emigrant who bequeathed part of his fortune to the town to build a charitable foundation named after him.

On this occasion we continue by car to our next destination, Castropol. Another possibility would be on foot. An easily accessible coastal path links the two towns, running parallel to the estuary, and is well worth the walk!

The 'jewels' of Castropol

Legend has it that two Spanish galleys laden with jewels sleep in the depths of the Eo estuary, off the coast of Castropol. In these waters, in the Linera inlet, another jewel grows: oysters. Aquaculture enthusiasts can visit the cultivation centre with grills and sacks, bathed twice a day by the Bay of Biscay. The company Acueo organises tours of these facilities, including tasting. This activity is proving so successful that it has become another of the area's great attractions.

In any case, the beauty of this fishing village, declared an Exemplary Town of Asturias, leaves no one indifferent. Its historic quarter, an Asset of Cultural Interest (the highest level of heritage protection in Asturias), reflects the dominion of what from the 16th century onwards was the economic centre of the Navia-Eo area. Even today it is still a political and judicial reference point for the surrounding villages, and it is also the setting for the Corpus Christi Festival with its floral carpets, declared to be of Tourist Interest.

In addition, in the marina, perfect for a stroll, you can practise sports such as swimming, fishing or rowing, and relax in its restaurants and terraces.

In this town we find landmark buildings such as the Town Hall, built on the ruins of the castle of Fiel, a fortress that served as a residence for the Bishop of Oviedo during his holiday breaks in the 18th century, the church of Santiago Apóstol, and the palace-houses of the Valledor family, or of the Marquises of San Cruz de Marcenado. But if there is one thing that especially encapsulates the history and charm of Castropol, it is the Vicente Loriente park. Located in a spectacular avenue overlooking the estuary, it reflects the power of those who achieved prestige and recognition in overseas lands. It is as if time had not passed. It is named after the town's main benefactor, an emigrant who made his fortune trading goods in Cuba. King Alfonso XIII even awarded him the Gran Cruz al Mérito Naval, the highest distinction of the time, for promoting a statue of Fernando Villaamil.

This area retains all the charm of the 19th and 20th centuries, the era in which it was created. In this area is the chapel of Santa María del Campo (the only building preserved after the fire that devastated the town in 1587), the bandstand and the casino-theatre, cultural centre and home to the municipal library.

And this is the end of the visit to the two most westerly towns on the Cantabrian coast and, of course, with an excellent gastronomic offer. You only have to ask any local to get the best recommendations based on the fish and seafood of the Bay of Biscay.

However, a visit to these beautiful fishing villages can be the perfect counterpoint to continue visiting other areas of the council of Castropol, already inland, where you can find wonderful surprises such as the Cioyo Waterfall, a natural waterfall that will undoubtedly impress you.

A walk through Figueras and Castropol will be unforgettable!